The skin, our largest organ, is exposed to various influences on a daily basis that can affect your health and appearance. Careful moisturising with the right products is therefore essential. There is a plethora of products out there, all promising plump skin that is effectively moisturised. Some people moisturise diligently morning and night and still end up with dry skin and wonder what they are doing wrong. Unfortunately, there is no one "best" cream for the skin, but with a basic knowledge of effective moisturising ingredients, you can quickly and easily find a cream for you.
The main ingredients of a moisturiser
Moisturising ingredients are divided into three categories: Humectants, emollients and occlusives. But there is also a fourth category: barrier supporters. The mixture of these three (to four) ingredients results in a well-rounded moisturiser. The right mixture makes the remedy and the mixture also determines the category: lotion, cream or balm. Creams can also serve as a vehicle for ingredients that target the skin (1).
Let’s first take a look at the three (four!) main components.
Humectants
These are water-based ingredients that absorb and retain moisture. Favourites are glycerin, urea, hyaluronic acid, glycols, low lactic acid, panthenol, sodium PCA and beta-glucan.
Emollients
These are light oils that soften and smooth the skin’s texture and give it an instant glow. This category includes many ingredients, including light vegetable oils (jojoba and argan oil), vegetable oils (squalane, coconut alkanes), silicones (dimethicone), ceramides and esters (isononyl isonanoate).
Occlusives
Water evaporates naturally from the skin, which is called transepidermal water loss (TEWL). If the skin barrier is even slightly damaged, you may lose a lot of water, resulting in dry skin. Occlusive agents are ingredients that counteract this by sealing moisture in the skin and forming a water-repellent barrier. Occlusive agents often used in skincare are petrolatum (2), lanolin, waxes, butter and silicones (3).
Many ingredients are both emollients and occlusives.
Barrier supporters
Our skin barrier can be easily damaged: Dry or damp weather, hot or cold weather, allergens, dirt, irritants, smoking… Everything has an effect on our skin. A damaged protective barrier can be recognised by redness, dry patches of skin and flaky skin. Ingredients such as ceramides, fatty acids and gluconolactone (a PHA) help here by renewing the natural lipids and emollients in our skin and thus optimising the protective barrier.
Types of moisturisers
Now that we’ve looked at the ingredients, it’s time to take a closer look at which mixture makes up which type of cream. In short, the ratio of water to oil determines the type of moisturiser, which also influences the texture. Let’s take a closer look at the types.
Gels
Gel consists mostly of cellulose, water and alcohol. It contains minimal oil, can even be oil-free, leaving no residue on the skin. This makes gels most suitable for oily skin. In summer, combination skin can also benefit from gels. If gel does not sufficiently nourish the rest of the face, use gel in the T-zone and a lotion or cream on the rest of the face.
Lotions
The lotion is formulated similarly to the cream, but contains slightly more water and therefore less oil than the cream, usually just a few drops of oil. A lotion is therefore lighter than a cream and leaves a light film.
Cream
Unlike the lotion, the cream has more oil. The ratio between water and oil is 50:50, so creams are thicker and leave a protective film on the skin, which is very moisturising.
Balms
Balms usually contain little to no water and are used to heal wounds. It covers wounds protectively and provides the skin with care over a long period of time thanks to the fatty film, which remains on the skin for a long time. The balm is also known as a “fat cream” and is considered to be “finer” than the ointment.
Ointments
Similar to balm, it usually contains no water and is based on oil and wax. In contrast to the balm, the ointment is somewhat firmer as it contains more wax. Herbs are also sometimes added. An ointment serves to protect the skin and should not only penetrate deeply, but also create a long-lasting film over it. This is ideal for healing wounds and ulcers.
A healthy skin barrier
If the skin is irritated and inflamed, has dry patches and is red, then the barrier is damaged. As a result, moisture is no longer sufficiently absorbed and irritants penetrate more easily, leading to even more irritation. Calming, soothing ingredients help the skin to avoid falling into this vicious circle. Ceramides, madecassoside (from Centella Asiatica), bisabolol/ levomenol (Matricaria chamomilla) (4), rosemary, liquorice root etc. help here.
Ceramides and skin-like lipids
Ceramides are important components of our skin and occur naturally. As the skin ages, the ceramide level decreases. Ceramides cannot be permanently absorbed via creams, but studies show that topical ceramides, cholesterol and fatty acids can improve and support the skin in the long term.
Niacinamide
Niacinamide supports the skin barrier by promoting the formation of ceramides. It also reduces sebum production so that pores become less clogged. A concentration of 2% is completely sufficient, more than 4% irritates the skin.
Glycerine, urea and hyaluronic acid
All three are humectants, but they work differently.
The glycerine molecule is smaller than that of hyaluronic acid so that it can penetrate deeper into the skin and moisturise it there. This makes the skin feel particularly supple and smooth. Glycerin works immediately.
Hyaluronic acid, with its larger molecule, remains on the surface of the skin and moisturises it particularly well. The advantage of hyaluronic acid lies in its duration of use, as it unfolds its effect with prolonged use and thus provides the skin with long-term moisture and supports the skin barrier.
Studies have rarely compared glycerin and hyaluronic acid, but very often glycerin and urea. Glycerin immediately improved the skin’s moisture balance. Urea, on the other hand, was more effective for severe symptoms of dry skin, such as redness, itching and flaking.
This shows that a mixture of different components provides the best result and supports the skin barrier in the long term.
The skin microbiome
Just like in our stomach and intestines, good and bad bacteria also live on our skin. The skin is a living ecosystem and benefits from our support. Good skincare also supports the skin’s microbiome. This keeps the skin barrier healthy and the moisture balance balanced thanks to good skin care. Anyone with sensitive skin or undergoing treatments (such as peelings or acne treatments) should pay attention to their microbiome.
The skin type
There are several skin types, you can determine which type of skin you have based on distinctive features.
Skin type does not usually change over the course of a lifetime and is determined by genetics and hormones.
Oily skin
The following are the characteristics of oily skin:
- The skin shines,
- it is prone to spots and blackheads,
- the pores are quite large,
- you could do without a moisturiser and the skin won’t rebel afterwards.
Contrary to popular myth, it is not true that oily skin ages “better” or “less” than dry or combination skin. Skin type has no influence on skin ageing.
Oily skin does not necessarily need a moisturiser. For dehydration, a water-based lotion with light emollients and occlusive agents will help. A heavier cream can be used at night.
Dry skin
Signs of dry skin:
- Frequent feeling of tightness, especially after cleansing,
- the skin tends to develop powdery, flaky patches, redness and loss of elasticity,
- it looks dull, so it has hardly any lustre,
- pores are not visible,
- wrinkles, on the other hand, are particularly visible,
- moisturising cream is essential,
- powder never looks good on the skin.
Dry skin primarily needs emollients and occlusive agents, i.e. greasy, heavy creams. Together with humectants, water evaporation is counteracted. Dry skin needs all three components in a moisturiser!
Normal skin
If you don’t have any of the problems mentioned above, then you have “normal skin”. A light lotion or cream is ideal.
Combination skin
You have problems from both points: oily and dry skin, then you have combination skin.
Accordingly, the different skin zones must also be treated and cared for in a skin-specific manner.
The T-zone needs lighter gels or lotions, the rest of the skin needs greasier creams.
Skin diseases
There are also skin conditions that are more variable aspects of our skin that can fluctuate over time.
They can be influenced by environmental factors such as the weather and the skincare products you use. Internal factors, such as hormones, also contribute to how susceptible your skin is to these conditions.
Dehydrated vs. hydrated
All skin types can also be dehydrated and all can be moisturised. Hydrated skin is always good!
The moisture content refers to the amount of water in your skin. Dehydrated skin lacks water. It is often confused with dry skin, which lacks oil.
You can have dry and dehydrated skin and you can even have oily and dehydrated skin – then you have a lot of oil, but not much water under the oil
The main characteristics of dehydrated skin are:
- Rough texture,
- scaling,
- looks less smooth and “glowy”,
- less plump and less springy,
- tense.
Dehydrated skin is largely a temporary condition, which can be resolved within a few hours. However, some people may also have skin that does not retain water as well, making it more susceptible to dehydration due to environmental changes.
Sensitivity
In addition, your skin may be sensitive to certain ingredients or to everything in general.
The signs of sensitivity include:
- Redness (may be more difficult to recognise on darker skin),
- spottiness,
- itching,
- stingy feeling,
- a “hot” feeling,
- skin rashes.
Skin sensitivity has a large genetic component, as many people have sensitive skin throughout their lives.
However, environmental factors can also alter your skin barrier’s ability to act as a barrier. Therefore, if you overuse exfoliants, your skin can become hypersensitive to products that are normally fine – and this condition can last for weeks or months! Some people refer to this as sensitised skin.
Hyperpigmentation, acne, premature skin ageing, etc.
There are other skin conditions that can alter your skin’s needs, such as hyperpigmentation (dark spots), acne, premature ageing – but these are usually better treated with active ingredients rather than general moisturisers.
Conclusion
The main components are humectants (keep water on the skin), emollients (smooth the skin texture and make it supple and soft) and occlusives (lock in water). Barrier supporters often provide a necessary extra. There is the right care for everyone, you just have to pay attention to your skin’s needs and choose the right moisturiser.
Additional active ingredients can support the three (to four) components in the long term, such as ceramides or niacinamide.
Frequently asked questions
Regular use of products containing ceramides, cholesterol and fatty acids, as well as avoiding excessive washing or harsh cleansers can strengthen the skin barrier.
Determine your skin type (normal, dry, oily, combination) and choose products that are specially formulated for your skin type. If you are unsure, a consultation with a skincare expert can be helpful.
While natural oils are excellent emollients, they do not attract moisture from the environment, unlike traditional moisturisers. However, they can be used in combination with humectants to hydrate the skin.
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